A wood burning stove transforms a room. But before you can settle in front of that first flickering fire, there is a proper installation visit to get through — and knowing what happens on the day makes the whole process far less mysterious. A good fitter works through a clear sequence: survey, draught test, flue and register plate, hearth, then commissioning. Here is what to expect, step by step.

Before the fitter arrives

Preparation saves time and money. Clear the room as much as you can — move furniture, rugs and anything fragile away from the hearth area, and roll back carpet if the stove is going in front of it. If the flue runs through a loft or cupboard, make sure there is clear access, because the fitter will need to get up there to check the chimney's condition and route.

It also helps to have a few answers ready:

• What you burn and how often — occasional evenings or all-day winter heating.
• Whether the chimney has ever been swept, and when.
• Any damp patches, soot stains or draughts you have noticed around the chimney breast.
• Whether a gas, oil or electric appliance shares the same flue.

The survey and chimney assessment

Every installation starts with a proper look at the chimney. The fitter will check whether it is lined, sound and suitable for a solid fuel appliance, and whether the flue is the right size for the stove you have chosen. An oversized flue can cool the smoke too quickly, causing poor draw and heavy tarring; one that is too small will not carry the volume of gases away.

They will also inspect the chimney pot, cowl and terminal, check for cracks or missing mortar, and confirm nothing is blocking the flue — old nests, debris or a redundant liner. If the chimney is unlined or in poor condition, a flexible stainless steel liner is usually the answer, and this will be discussed before any work starts.

Testing the draught and ventilation

Draught is the engine of the whole system. A stove with a weak or unreliable draught will smoke back into the room, burn sluggishly and struggle to reach temperature. To test it, the fitter may use a smoke pellet or a draught gauge at the appliance position to see how strongly air is being pulled up the chimney.

Ventilation matters just as much. Solid fuel appliances need a permanent air supply, and the fitter will check for existing air bricks or vents. In a modern, well-sealed house, an additional vent may be required to keep the stove burning safely and efficiently.

Fitting the flue, register plate and hearth

With the survey complete, the physical work begins. If a liner is being fitted, it is dropped down from the roof or pushed up from below, then connected to the stove collar with a suitable adaptor. A register plate — usually made from steel — seals the opening at the base of the chimney, closing off the void and stopping warm room air disappearing up the flue while keeping debris out.

The hearth comes next. Building Regulations require a non-combustible base of a set thickness, extending a certain distance in front of and around the stove, so the floor and nearby surfaces are protected from heat and falling embers. The fitter will also check clearances to combustible materials, such as timber studwork, skirting and shelves, and confirm the stove sits at the correct distance from the wall.

• Flue and liner connected and properly sealed.
• Register plate fitted to close off the chimney void.
• Hearth laid and finished to the required dimensions.
• Clearances to combustibles checked and observed.

Commissioning the stove safely

The final stage is commissioning. The fitter lights a small test fire to check the stove draws correctly, that there are no leaks at the joints, and that smoke travels up the chimney rather than into the room. They will set the door catch, check the air controls and make sure the baffle plate is seated properly.

You should also be given a carbon monoxide alarm and the installation paperwork, including a certificate confirming the work complies with Building Regulations. Take the chance to ask questions — how to control the burn, what to do if the stove overheats, and when to book the first sweep.

Settling in after the visit

Your first few fires should be small and gentle. This allows the stove's paint or cast iron to cure and the seals to settle, with a faint smell that soon passes. After that, burn dry, well-seasoned wood with a moisture content under 20 per cent. Burning wet wood wastes heat, coats the flue in tar and is the quickest way to undo a good installation.

Then it is simply a case of enjoying it: a proper fire, a warm room and the particular comfort that only a real stove brings to a home.